Journal Entries: 3/25 to 4/3
Saturday, 3/25/2006
Napoleon.
Before the sun had come up I was packed and ready to go. I muttered my prayers under my breath as I took my first steps of the day and watched the sun come up... "O Heavenly King, the Comforter, the Spirit of Truth who art everywhere and fillest all things...."
When I awoke suddenly earlier that morning I had quickly put my clothes on and rolled up my sleeping bag as I was cold in my tent. I unzipped my way out into the dark and shoved unfeeling feet into my boots, carefully tying them tight as I oriented myself in my head. I untied the rope holding my food bag, ate a cold breakfast, and packed my pack in the dark with just an inkling of glowing blue light on the horizon. My fingers were numb so it takes longer than one would think to get ready for the day, about an hour. I hoisted my pack on my back, groaned, and walked up to the 18 year old still shivering in his hammock. "Do you want to get up now?" I whispered to him. "No." was his reply. Too early. It wasn't even 6 yet.
I hiked all through the morning for about five miles where I stopped for lunch and water. I took my pack off and sat down on the grass next to spring to relax and filter some water. The sweat in my shirt steamed off in the sun. I hadn't seen anyone all day.
The first person I came across, after 12 miles or so, is the person I came to call "Napoleon" after Napoleon Dynamite. Napoleon has a slight overbite, has large legs, and is entering into law school after the trail. Although intelligent, he is socially awkward at times and has a habit of spitting litanies of pained complaints while exhaling which is why I gave him the name. He prefers "Flash Gordon". Apparently we hike at about the same pace because over the course of two hours we crisscrossed several times while led inevitably to us hiking together. He has run four marathons he lets me know. He also can’t stand “all these stupid rocks!” whatever that means.
Another 5 miles and we came to Dick’s Creek Gap where a state highway intersects the trail. My ankle had swelled up substantially during that last two miles so I really want a quick break to let it soak for a while. We decided to hitch to Hiawassee to stay at the Hiawassee Inn. We were immediately picked up by a missionary family taking a leave from Africa.
“So, ya’ll are hiking the Appalachian’s then?”
“Yeah”
“That’s great. Ya’ll smell like you haven’t shower’d in years!”
“Well, a week or so”
"That's okay, were used to it. You should smell the people we work with."
It’s true I haven’t showered in quite some time, but I have kept clean in everyway possible. In the freezing cold it’s not like you can just take off your clothes and splash in a creek because it would probably kill you from the cold. The best I can do is put some Dr. Bronners on strategic area’s, brush my teeth, trim my nails, and usually wash my face.
After a buffet and resupply at the Ingles, I now lie in bed across from Napoleon falling asleep to the sound of Law and Order.
Sunday, 3/26/2006
I am now in North Carolina. I am so happy to finish my first state. I’ve traveled a whole 78 miles and Georgia is now in the past. The hiking today was extremely difficult, some of the hardest so far. Up and down all day with Napoleon. I’ve come to almost like him now. Were staying at a shelter now and I am currently watching Little Spot warm his rear on the fire. 12 miles today.
Monday, 3/27/2006
Long, strenuous hiking today with Napoleon. We did about 17 miles today. I would really like to get through the Nantahala’s to Fontana where I can get a room and take a shower. Napoleon and I are camping our here at Betty Creek Gap. I am eating Asian noodles and oatmeal for dinner.
Tuesday, 3/28/2006
Trail Magic and the Cherokee
Magically it stopped raining as I unzipped my sleeping and climbed outside to make coffee for the morning. After it brewed, I sat on a wet log sipping it out of my red cup and feeling the moisture absorb through my pants into my underwear. Ahhhh. It was a good morning finally. I thought of how glad I was that I finally invested in some instant coffee mix. Napoleon got out of his tent and put his glasses. “Do you want some coffee?” He answered, “No” in a drawn out voice. I started singing “That’s Enough” by Johnny Cash as I boiled a second pot of water and listened to Napoleon’s strained breathing as he took down camp. “Are you singing already? Man.” he exclaimed. I just kept singing until the water boiled and I could sip on the coffee and watch the creek in the distance.
About an hour onto the trail that day we came across a large sign which said “TRAIL MAGIC -->” so we followed the arrow to find an RV and a 20’x20’ tarp hung up to block the rain. It was a large trail magic operation. Fishing Fred and Gatorade, two former hikers, come out each year for about a month and cook people meals. I was very excited as I noticed they were making blueberry pancakes. They poured me some coffee and I sat down and smelled it and said , “The coffee, it’s black like my soul.” A bit later I ate two stacks of pancakes, mine and Napoleons (he left after drinking some milk).
The rest of the day I hiked alone. On the way up one climb (Albert Mtn.) the trail was so steep I had to crawl on all fours. Towards the end of the day I began to get really tired and slowed down to a slow stumble. The pack weighed on my shoulders and cut into my skin. I had done about 15 miles and had let my mind wander for most of the time, and suddenly I realized that I was exhausted and each step was painful. I stopped and sat down and noticed there was a shelter nearby, so I hiked down to the shelter (Rocky Gap). I used the privy and watched the sweat evaporate off of my clothes. It was a nice weather for hiking, not too cold. I kept hiking from there for another 2 miles or so to Winding Stair Gap where I had hoped to camp near to call it a day. I loitered at the gap watching cars go by for a while, then I hiked .5 miles up the trail on the other side where there was a fine campsite next to a stream. I set up camp and ate dinner with effort and sat on a log and thought about how tired I was. I was so tired I couldn't see straight. A man walking in suspenders caught my eye and I realized he was walking around my camp. I made eye contact with him and he changed his course and headed for me. He talked to me for a while however I was too tired to say much back. He pulled out a zig-zag and rolled a marijuana cigarette and offered me some. “No.” I said with the wave of my hand and a look of disapproval. He stated a medical condition forcing him to smoke J’s. I scrutinize him closely as he doesn’t have a backpack and he claims to live nearby and he didn't have my sympathy for this medical condition. He lives nearby, here in the middle of a national forest? He must be parked at the gap. He turned to me with his raised cheekbones and began telling me about the Nantahala’s. “Do you know what Nantahala means?” “No” I tell him. He told me it means the land of the mid-day sun in Cherokee because of the way the mountains are shaped. He explained the mountains are shaped in such a way that one only receives direct sunlight around noon. Apparently he is part Cherokee. He left and the sun was about to go down and I decided I didn’t like the situation, so I packed up camp and headed for the gap. It got dark on the way there and my light died, so I found my way groping in the dark.
Once at the gap, only an older hiker with his dog were parked and he called me a shuttle into town. I waited for about an hour looking at the dark clouds move in front of the stars and watched the hiker go through a few bowls of pot. “You want some?” “I really don‘t.” Thats two times in one night.
I stayed at the Sapphire Inn and got a room all for myself. Once inside I took off all my clothes and lied on the bed for a while with the TV on. It was very nice. Something about the Cherokee made me anxious, and I was glad I wasn’t sleeping out there. I then showered, and used up half of the bottle of body wash in the process.
Wednesday, 3/29/2006
Tent Poles.
In the morning I organized my pack and then walked to an Internet Café (the name of the town was Franklin, a nice place to be for a thru-hiker) where I updated my blog and had some coffee and some good conversation with the girl who ran the place. I then hitched a ride from a young man in a 60’s beetle to Wal-mart to resupply. He shopped with me and then he drove me back to the trailhead at Winding Stair Gap. It was about noon. I hiked shirtless for a great 10 miles to Wayah Bald where I set up camp and lie in the sun for a while. Around 530 I decided to set up my tent for the night when I discovered my tent poles were not in my backpack. I was frustrated to the point of rage and tore through everything I owned and scattered it about the campsite. No tent poles. While in despair, it occurred to me the tent poles had to be in Franklin somewhere as I had had them at the site with the Cherokee. So…I had to hike back to Winding Stair Gap, a full 10 miles, in the dark? I packed up and began walking back when I noticed a pickup truck with tools in the back driving down a USFS back road. I waved my arms and they pulled over. Luckily they were going pretty close to Franklin and were willing to give me a ride. I threw my backpack in the back and hoped in. First thing that happens when I get in is I hear, “Want a Bud-Light?” All right, I'll have one. So does the driver and his son. It’s North Carolina, that’s what they do here.
Back in Franklin the poles are not in my former room, nor at the Café. I wasn’t about to pay for another night, but some other hikers graciously offer to let me sleep on the floor in their room, so I do so. I use the restroom and notice the bathtub is filled with, that’s right, Bud-Light. No tent-poles yet.
Thursday, 3/30/2006
I took the morning shuttle to winding stair gap on a quest to find the poles when Brave Friend reaches under the seat and finds them. They had slipped out the night before when I shoved my pack in and had rolled under the seat. Greatly relieved, I went back to the Sapphire Inn to learn there was a shuttle going to Wayah Bald, exactly the place I left off. So I got my stuff and went back to Wayah Bald. Hardly a day lost. I hiked a strenous 12 miles to Wesser Bald Shelter, tucked away down from Wesser Bald. I camped a ways from the shelter as it was crowded and came into camp where I met many new people. Slick B, Rasta Legs, Squarel(spelled wrong intentionally) and others. Slick B is known as Slick B becuase of his use of Vaseline to combat the chafing he had in a certain area. I sat next to the campfire and ate dinner and listened to the conversation and then hung my foodbag and climbed up to the ridge and hopped in my tent to read Siddhartha. I read for several hours late into the night until I finished it.
Friday, 3/31/2006
The Nantahala River.
I opened my eyes this morning and stared at the green fabric of my tent above my head. I had a late night, so I felt horrible and didn't want to get up. I was warm, roasting in the heat of my own body insulated by my mummybag. Again, I didn't want to wake up. I sat up and rubbed the sand out of my eyes and reached into a pocket to check the time. I groaned and grunted and got halfway out, feeling the cool air creep against my stomach and down to my legs. I quickly slipped my pants and shirt on while still in the bag and went outside. Everyone was leaving already. I cooked breakfast and had a generally lazy morning and then left for Wesser, which was just over 5 miles away. I hiked fast down treacher and got to the N.O.C. around noon, in time to stop at the restaraunt for a burger.
Wesser is a small adventure town, the center of which is the Nantahala Outdoor Center which the trail passes right through. It's right on the Nantahala river, a beautiful flowing green river. I ate a burger with some fellow through hikers watching delicious water of the river. After the burger I was still hungry so I went to the outfitter and bought a a whole box of pop tarts and an iced coffee and I went down to the river and took off my shirt and sat on a rock in the sun. It was warming up, maybe spring is coming? I thought. I ate the whole box of chocolate pop tarts and drank the coffee and felt fine. I had someone hold my legs and I submerged under the freezing water and looked across the clear green water and saw the bottom of a kayak float by. I came up and washed with Dr. Bronner's and for the first time really felt like a thru-hiker as several "civilians" were staring at me from the bridge as I bathed in the river. I stayed there around the rocks for an hour but then the clouds came and I got cold so I packed my bag and moved along. On the way up the mountain two tourists saw me and flagged me down.
"So your hiking a long way then huh?"
"Yeah, to Maine."
"Wow, to Maine, what is that 1000 miles?"
"2200"
"Wow, 2200, can we take your picture?"
"Sure"
And so it goes with people of the outside world. I can't say I don't mind the attention, but they always ask the same questions. How long will it take? Are you bringing a gun? How long you been hiking? Are you scared? You become so accustomed to the questions you go on auto-mode and answer them the same each time without thiking. I kept hiking and the clouds became somewhat ominous, so when I saw Slick B shirtless with his wild beard full of suds near a campsite I decided to stay there for the night. I setup my tent and got water and sat down and stared at the clouds for a while. I talked to Slick B about music for a while but he didn't seem that interested so I went back to staring at the clouds. Rain was coming. Eventually the camp of three turned into a camp of 18 as everyone passing through Wesser saw the clouds too and camped at the site. So it looked like a basecamp at the edge of a mountain. As I looked at all the tents I thought of how much I wanted to climb big Himalayan mountains. Among the crowd was three sisters all the way from Australia. They came all the way here just to hike the Appalachian Trail, two redheads, a brunette- all pharmacists and all with bright orange tents. Really nice girls. I spent about an hour asking retarded questions about kangaroo's and barbies and such. I climbed a tree but Supersize yelled at me becuase I almost knocked down a branch on his tent. I came down and it started raining so I got in my tent and took a nap. When I woke up it was dark and there was a nice campfire and the rain had stopped. I sat and talked to one of the Aussies for a long time and then went to bed when the rain and thunder came.
Saturday, 4/1/2006
One of the most difficult climbs on the whole trail (so I've been told) was the climb I did this morning. The elevation at the N.O.C. was 1740'. The elevation at the top of the first climb this morning at Cheoah Bald was 5062'. I saw that on paper but I did not comprehend it. This morning, I found out. I left early and started strong. As I first started hiking I thought about how much I didn't feel like hiking today. Thats one thing about long term backpacking, you have to hike whether you feel like it or not. Staying in one place is not only boring, but its a waste of time and money. So when you wake up one morning and think, "Man, I don't really feel like strapping on a heavy pack and drudging through the woods." Too bad. I hiked the first 1000' to a shelter and used the privy and ate a powerbar I had bought at the N.O.C. I got back on I climbed for the next two hours, sweaty and grunting all the way. On top of Cheoah Bald looking at a grand view I sneered and vaulted my hiking stick off a cliff and yelled, "Caveman has defeated another mighty mountain" while two other hikers sat and watched and I picked up another stick and kept hiking, now downhill.
Fontana was within my reach, only a couple days away. After 11 miles of mindless hiking I came to Stecoah Gap where there was some trail magic? I saw tables and smelled hot dogs. I was greeted and offered gatorade and a plate of hot food. It just keeps coming! I was delighted and took the proffered food. I sat exhausted and watched all the hikers for me arrive over the next hour. I was winning before this. I ate four hotdogs and two plates of food. I hitchhiked into the town and bought some supplies and fuel at an Ingles and hitched back to the gap. This took only an hour and I hiked a steep, steep 2.4 miles to Brown Fork Gap Shelter. I was so exhausted I threw my pack to the ground and laid on the grass stiff and steaming with sweat. I turned over and looked at green leaves. Spring? I turned my head and groped sweet buds on a small bush and saw little shoots of grass coming up out of the dirt. Spring was here! I couldn't wait to watch Spring come from the woods perspective. Every leaflet, every shoot, every bud I would see come to life. Everything told me the God was still there and that my prayers each night would come to fruition just like the buds I held in my hand. I looked up at the rays of light through the trees and my own steam and I loved living very much at this moment. Thats night in my tent I had nothing to read so I read my prayer book for an hour, whispering prayers for forgiveness, for peace, for humility- evening prayers and morning prayers, just about all of them. I fell asleep warm and dreamt of living by a river and spent the night bathing in the sun.
Sunday, 4/2/2006
I woke early to a temperate morning and smooth hiking. I hiked an uneventful 12 miles to Fontana Dam. Towards the end of the hike it started to rain, but I didn't mind it. I was in great shape by this time and I noticed how naturally hiking had become. I got to the road to Fontana and sat with my thumb out for an hour before I was picked up. I went to registration and came in soaked as it was pouring rain. I got a room at the cheap hiker rate and hiked the quarter mile to the room at the "village" and opened the door to find a large room with two beds, both for me. I took my pack off and stripped my clothes off and stepped into the bathtub. I reached to turn the water on but found the knob that controlled the water had been broken off. I called the front desk and bitterly complained so she told me she'd give me on of the nice renovated rooms if that would make me happy. She said they had great showers. I accepted and I got my key and walked to the resort rooms and stepped into a bigger room with bigger beds and stepped into a wonderful shower. I showered well and wrapped myself in a white hotel towel and looked at myself in the mirror. I was pretty hairy and wild looking, even after a shower. I put my laundry in and walked up to the Bistro and ordered a Hamburger with cheese and a pint of Guiness. I then went down to the indoor heated pool and swam, lifted some weights, and then took a sauna. I love saunas so I got it hot and sweated in the dark. It was a good afternoon. I watched HBO for a while and then slept peacefully.
Monday, 4/3/2006
I woke up feeling like heaven and I got my stuff together and walked to the Post Office to get my packages. There were four! I was so excited. I packed all the goodies and attempted to put my pack on. With all the foodstuffs that were sent, my pack must have been over 60 pounds. I put on my new boots that were sent from my parents and threw my old ones in the trashcan in front of the P.O. I got on the shuttle to the trail and hiked into the Smoky Mountains a couple miles when I noticed all my toes were bleeding. My new boots were too small. I hiked back, caught a ride with Ridgerunner, and dug my old boots out of the trash and mailed my old ones back. Now it was 2pm and I still hadn't made any progress at all. Now, I was supposed to meet Leah and Aaron on Wednesday afternoon at Newfound Gap which was 40 miles away. Now, I couldn't get back to the trail until 430ish becuase of the shuttle schedule so I only had about 2 days to do it. I decided to leave a rucksack full of things at the outfitter at Fontana in order lower the weight of my pack so I could make it there. When Aaron and Leah came to trail, we could drive and pick it up. So I left about 20 pounds worth of supplies and caught the 430 shuttle to the trail. By the time I entered the Smoky Mountains again it was already almost 6pm. I flew up the mountains that night, climbing for 3 miles in about an hour to a campsite where I set up my minimalist camp. I had two days worth of food, the clothes on my body, my tent and sleeping bag. Thats it. I cooked myself a quesadilla with sausage in it on a pan over the campfire and went to bed.
Napoleon.
Before the sun had come up I was packed and ready to go. I muttered my prayers under my breath as I took my first steps of the day and watched the sun come up... "O Heavenly King, the Comforter, the Spirit of Truth who art everywhere and fillest all things...."
When I awoke suddenly earlier that morning I had quickly put my clothes on and rolled up my sleeping bag as I was cold in my tent. I unzipped my way out into the dark and shoved unfeeling feet into my boots, carefully tying them tight as I oriented myself in my head. I untied the rope holding my food bag, ate a cold breakfast, and packed my pack in the dark with just an inkling of glowing blue light on the horizon. My fingers were numb so it takes longer than one would think to get ready for the day, about an hour. I hoisted my pack on my back, groaned, and walked up to the 18 year old still shivering in his hammock. "Do you want to get up now?" I whispered to him. "No." was his reply. Too early. It wasn't even 6 yet.
I hiked all through the morning for about five miles where I stopped for lunch and water. I took my pack off and sat down on the grass next to spring to relax and filter some water. The sweat in my shirt steamed off in the sun. I hadn't seen anyone all day.
The first person I came across, after 12 miles or so, is the person I came to call "Napoleon" after Napoleon Dynamite. Napoleon has a slight overbite, has large legs, and is entering into law school after the trail. Although intelligent, he is socially awkward at times and has a habit of spitting litanies of pained complaints while exhaling which is why I gave him the name. He prefers "Flash Gordon". Apparently we hike at about the same pace because over the course of two hours we crisscrossed several times while led inevitably to us hiking together. He has run four marathons he lets me know. He also can’t stand “all these stupid rocks!” whatever that means.
Another 5 miles and we came to Dick’s Creek Gap where a state highway intersects the trail. My ankle had swelled up substantially during that last two miles so I really want a quick break to let it soak for a while. We decided to hitch to Hiawassee to stay at the Hiawassee Inn. We were immediately picked up by a missionary family taking a leave from Africa.
“So, ya’ll are hiking the Appalachian’s then?”
“Yeah”
“That’s great. Ya’ll smell like you haven’t shower’d in years!”
“Well, a week or so”
"That's okay, were used to it. You should smell the people we work with."
It’s true I haven’t showered in quite some time, but I have kept clean in everyway possible. In the freezing cold it’s not like you can just take off your clothes and splash in a creek because it would probably kill you from the cold. The best I can do is put some Dr. Bronners on strategic area’s, brush my teeth, trim my nails, and usually wash my face.
After a buffet and resupply at the Ingles, I now lie in bed across from Napoleon falling asleep to the sound of Law and Order.
Sunday, 3/26/2006
I am now in North Carolina. I am so happy to finish my first state. I’ve traveled a whole 78 miles and Georgia is now in the past. The hiking today was extremely difficult, some of the hardest so far. Up and down all day with Napoleon. I’ve come to almost like him now. Were staying at a shelter now and I am currently watching Little Spot warm his rear on the fire. 12 miles today.
Monday, 3/27/2006
Long, strenuous hiking today with Napoleon. We did about 17 miles today. I would really like to get through the Nantahala’s to Fontana where I can get a room and take a shower. Napoleon and I are camping our here at Betty Creek Gap. I am eating Asian noodles and oatmeal for dinner.
Tuesday, 3/28/2006
Trail Magic and the Cherokee
Magically it stopped raining as I unzipped my sleeping and climbed outside to make coffee for the morning. After it brewed, I sat on a wet log sipping it out of my red cup and feeling the moisture absorb through my pants into my underwear. Ahhhh. It was a good morning finally. I thought of how glad I was that I finally invested in some instant coffee mix. Napoleon got out of his tent and put his glasses. “Do you want some coffee?” He answered, “No” in a drawn out voice. I started singing “That’s Enough” by Johnny Cash as I boiled a second pot of water and listened to Napoleon’s strained breathing as he took down camp. “Are you singing already? Man.” he exclaimed. I just kept singing until the water boiled and I could sip on the coffee and watch the creek in the distance.
About an hour onto the trail that day we came across a large sign which said “TRAIL MAGIC -->” so we followed the arrow to find an RV and a 20’x20’ tarp hung up to block the rain. It was a large trail magic operation. Fishing Fred and Gatorade, two former hikers, come out each year for about a month and cook people meals. I was very excited as I noticed they were making blueberry pancakes. They poured me some coffee and I sat down and smelled it and said , “The coffee, it’s black like my soul.” A bit later I ate two stacks of pancakes, mine and Napoleons (he left after drinking some milk).
The rest of the day I hiked alone. On the way up one climb (Albert Mtn.) the trail was so steep I had to crawl on all fours. Towards the end of the day I began to get really tired and slowed down to a slow stumble. The pack weighed on my shoulders and cut into my skin. I had done about 15 miles and had let my mind wander for most of the time, and suddenly I realized that I was exhausted and each step was painful. I stopped and sat down and noticed there was a shelter nearby, so I hiked down to the shelter (Rocky Gap). I used the privy and watched the sweat evaporate off of my clothes. It was a nice weather for hiking, not too cold. I kept hiking from there for another 2 miles or so to Winding Stair Gap where I had hoped to camp near to call it a day. I loitered at the gap watching cars go by for a while, then I hiked .5 miles up the trail on the other side where there was a fine campsite next to a stream. I set up camp and ate dinner with effort and sat on a log and thought about how tired I was. I was so tired I couldn't see straight. A man walking in suspenders caught my eye and I realized he was walking around my camp. I made eye contact with him and he changed his course and headed for me. He talked to me for a while however I was too tired to say much back. He pulled out a zig-zag and rolled a marijuana cigarette and offered me some. “No.” I said with the wave of my hand and a look of disapproval. He stated a medical condition forcing him to smoke J’s. I scrutinize him closely as he doesn’t have a backpack and he claims to live nearby and he didn't have my sympathy for this medical condition. He lives nearby, here in the middle of a national forest? He must be parked at the gap. He turned to me with his raised cheekbones and began telling me about the Nantahala’s. “Do you know what Nantahala means?” “No” I tell him. He told me it means the land of the mid-day sun in Cherokee because of the way the mountains are shaped. He explained the mountains are shaped in such a way that one only receives direct sunlight around noon. Apparently he is part Cherokee. He left and the sun was about to go down and I decided I didn’t like the situation, so I packed up camp and headed for the gap. It got dark on the way there and my light died, so I found my way groping in the dark.
Once at the gap, only an older hiker with his dog were parked and he called me a shuttle into town. I waited for about an hour looking at the dark clouds move in front of the stars and watched the hiker go through a few bowls of pot. “You want some?” “I really don‘t.” Thats two times in one night.
I stayed at the Sapphire Inn and got a room all for myself. Once inside I took off all my clothes and lied on the bed for a while with the TV on. It was very nice. Something about the Cherokee made me anxious, and I was glad I wasn’t sleeping out there. I then showered, and used up half of the bottle of body wash in the process.
Wednesday, 3/29/2006
Tent Poles.
In the morning I organized my pack and then walked to an Internet Café (the name of the town was Franklin, a nice place to be for a thru-hiker) where I updated my blog and had some coffee and some good conversation with the girl who ran the place. I then hitched a ride from a young man in a 60’s beetle to Wal-mart to resupply. He shopped with me and then he drove me back to the trailhead at Winding Stair Gap. It was about noon. I hiked shirtless for a great 10 miles to Wayah Bald where I set up camp and lie in the sun for a while. Around 530 I decided to set up my tent for the night when I discovered my tent poles were not in my backpack. I was frustrated to the point of rage and tore through everything I owned and scattered it about the campsite. No tent poles. While in despair, it occurred to me the tent poles had to be in Franklin somewhere as I had had them at the site with the Cherokee. So…I had to hike back to Winding Stair Gap, a full 10 miles, in the dark? I packed up and began walking back when I noticed a pickup truck with tools in the back driving down a USFS back road. I waved my arms and they pulled over. Luckily they were going pretty close to Franklin and were willing to give me a ride. I threw my backpack in the back and hoped in. First thing that happens when I get in is I hear, “Want a Bud-Light?” All right, I'll have one. So does the driver and his son. It’s North Carolina, that’s what they do here.
Back in Franklin the poles are not in my former room, nor at the Café. I wasn’t about to pay for another night, but some other hikers graciously offer to let me sleep on the floor in their room, so I do so. I use the restroom and notice the bathtub is filled with, that’s right, Bud-Light. No tent-poles yet.
Thursday, 3/30/2006
I took the morning shuttle to winding stair gap on a quest to find the poles when Brave Friend reaches under the seat and finds them. They had slipped out the night before when I shoved my pack in and had rolled under the seat. Greatly relieved, I went back to the Sapphire Inn to learn there was a shuttle going to Wayah Bald, exactly the place I left off. So I got my stuff and went back to Wayah Bald. Hardly a day lost. I hiked a strenous 12 miles to Wesser Bald Shelter, tucked away down from Wesser Bald. I camped a ways from the shelter as it was crowded and came into camp where I met many new people. Slick B, Rasta Legs, Squarel(spelled wrong intentionally) and others. Slick B is known as Slick B becuase of his use of Vaseline to combat the chafing he had in a certain area. I sat next to the campfire and ate dinner and listened to the conversation and then hung my foodbag and climbed up to the ridge and hopped in my tent to read Siddhartha. I read for several hours late into the night until I finished it.
Friday, 3/31/2006
The Nantahala River.
I opened my eyes this morning and stared at the green fabric of my tent above my head. I had a late night, so I felt horrible and didn't want to get up. I was warm, roasting in the heat of my own body insulated by my mummybag. Again, I didn't want to wake up. I sat up and rubbed the sand out of my eyes and reached into a pocket to check the time. I groaned and grunted and got halfway out, feeling the cool air creep against my stomach and down to my legs. I quickly slipped my pants and shirt on while still in the bag and went outside. Everyone was leaving already. I cooked breakfast and had a generally lazy morning and then left for Wesser, which was just over 5 miles away. I hiked fast down treacher and got to the N.O.C. around noon, in time to stop at the restaraunt for a burger.
Wesser is a small adventure town, the center of which is the Nantahala Outdoor Center which the trail passes right through. It's right on the Nantahala river, a beautiful flowing green river. I ate a burger with some fellow through hikers watching delicious water of the river. After the burger I was still hungry so I went to the outfitter and bought a a whole box of pop tarts and an iced coffee and I went down to the river and took off my shirt and sat on a rock in the sun. It was warming up, maybe spring is coming? I thought. I ate the whole box of chocolate pop tarts and drank the coffee and felt fine. I had someone hold my legs and I submerged under the freezing water and looked across the clear green water and saw the bottom of a kayak float by. I came up and washed with Dr. Bronner's and for the first time really felt like a thru-hiker as several "civilians" were staring at me from the bridge as I bathed in the river. I stayed there around the rocks for an hour but then the clouds came and I got cold so I packed my bag and moved along. On the way up the mountain two tourists saw me and flagged me down.
"So your hiking a long way then huh?"
"Yeah, to Maine."
"Wow, to Maine, what is that 1000 miles?"
"2200"
"Wow, 2200, can we take your picture?"
"Sure"
And so it goes with people of the outside world. I can't say I don't mind the attention, but they always ask the same questions. How long will it take? Are you bringing a gun? How long you been hiking? Are you scared? You become so accustomed to the questions you go on auto-mode and answer them the same each time without thiking. I kept hiking and the clouds became somewhat ominous, so when I saw Slick B shirtless with his wild beard full of suds near a campsite I decided to stay there for the night. I setup my tent and got water and sat down and stared at the clouds for a while. I talked to Slick B about music for a while but he didn't seem that interested so I went back to staring at the clouds. Rain was coming. Eventually the camp of three turned into a camp of 18 as everyone passing through Wesser saw the clouds too and camped at the site. So it looked like a basecamp at the edge of a mountain. As I looked at all the tents I thought of how much I wanted to climb big Himalayan mountains. Among the crowd was three sisters all the way from Australia. They came all the way here just to hike the Appalachian Trail, two redheads, a brunette- all pharmacists and all with bright orange tents. Really nice girls. I spent about an hour asking retarded questions about kangaroo's and barbies and such. I climbed a tree but Supersize yelled at me becuase I almost knocked down a branch on his tent. I came down and it started raining so I got in my tent and took a nap. When I woke up it was dark and there was a nice campfire and the rain had stopped. I sat and talked to one of the Aussies for a long time and then went to bed when the rain and thunder came.
Saturday, 4/1/2006
One of the most difficult climbs on the whole trail (so I've been told) was the climb I did this morning. The elevation at the N.O.C. was 1740'. The elevation at the top of the first climb this morning at Cheoah Bald was 5062'. I saw that on paper but I did not comprehend it. This morning, I found out. I left early and started strong. As I first started hiking I thought about how much I didn't feel like hiking today. Thats one thing about long term backpacking, you have to hike whether you feel like it or not. Staying in one place is not only boring, but its a waste of time and money. So when you wake up one morning and think, "Man, I don't really feel like strapping on a heavy pack and drudging through the woods." Too bad. I hiked the first 1000' to a shelter and used the privy and ate a powerbar I had bought at the N.O.C. I got back on I climbed for the next two hours, sweaty and grunting all the way. On top of Cheoah Bald looking at a grand view I sneered and vaulted my hiking stick off a cliff and yelled, "Caveman has defeated another mighty mountain" while two other hikers sat and watched and I picked up another stick and kept hiking, now downhill.
Fontana was within my reach, only a couple days away. After 11 miles of mindless hiking I came to Stecoah Gap where there was some trail magic? I saw tables and smelled hot dogs. I was greeted and offered gatorade and a plate of hot food. It just keeps coming! I was delighted and took the proffered food. I sat exhausted and watched all the hikers for me arrive over the next hour. I was winning before this. I ate four hotdogs and two plates of food. I hitchhiked into the town and bought some supplies and fuel at an Ingles and hitched back to the gap. This took only an hour and I hiked a steep, steep 2.4 miles to Brown Fork Gap Shelter. I was so exhausted I threw my pack to the ground and laid on the grass stiff and steaming with sweat. I turned over and looked at green leaves. Spring? I turned my head and groped sweet buds on a small bush and saw little shoots of grass coming up out of the dirt. Spring was here! I couldn't wait to watch Spring come from the woods perspective. Every leaflet, every shoot, every bud I would see come to life. Everything told me the God was still there and that my prayers each night would come to fruition just like the buds I held in my hand. I looked up at the rays of light through the trees and my own steam and I loved living very much at this moment. Thats night in my tent I had nothing to read so I read my prayer book for an hour, whispering prayers for forgiveness, for peace, for humility- evening prayers and morning prayers, just about all of them. I fell asleep warm and dreamt of living by a river and spent the night bathing in the sun.
Sunday, 4/2/2006
I woke early to a temperate morning and smooth hiking. I hiked an uneventful 12 miles to Fontana Dam. Towards the end of the hike it started to rain, but I didn't mind it. I was in great shape by this time and I noticed how naturally hiking had become. I got to the road to Fontana and sat with my thumb out for an hour before I was picked up. I went to registration and came in soaked as it was pouring rain. I got a room at the cheap hiker rate and hiked the quarter mile to the room at the "village" and opened the door to find a large room with two beds, both for me. I took my pack off and stripped my clothes off and stepped into the bathtub. I reached to turn the water on but found the knob that controlled the water had been broken off. I called the front desk and bitterly complained so she told me she'd give me on of the nice renovated rooms if that would make me happy. She said they had great showers. I accepted and I got my key and walked to the resort rooms and stepped into a bigger room with bigger beds and stepped into a wonderful shower. I showered well and wrapped myself in a white hotel towel and looked at myself in the mirror. I was pretty hairy and wild looking, even after a shower. I put my laundry in and walked up to the Bistro and ordered a Hamburger with cheese and a pint of Guiness. I then went down to the indoor heated pool and swam, lifted some weights, and then took a sauna. I love saunas so I got it hot and sweated in the dark. It was a good afternoon. I watched HBO for a while and then slept peacefully.
Monday, 4/3/2006
I woke up feeling like heaven and I got my stuff together and walked to the Post Office to get my packages. There were four! I was so excited. I packed all the goodies and attempted to put my pack on. With all the foodstuffs that were sent, my pack must have been over 60 pounds. I put on my new boots that were sent from my parents and threw my old ones in the trashcan in front of the P.O. I got on the shuttle to the trail and hiked into the Smoky Mountains a couple miles when I noticed all my toes were bleeding. My new boots were too small. I hiked back, caught a ride with Ridgerunner, and dug my old boots out of the trash and mailed my old ones back. Now it was 2pm and I still hadn't made any progress at all. Now, I was supposed to meet Leah and Aaron on Wednesday afternoon at Newfound Gap which was 40 miles away. Now, I couldn't get back to the trail until 430ish becuase of the shuttle schedule so I only had about 2 days to do it. I decided to leave a rucksack full of things at the outfitter at Fontana in order lower the weight of my pack so I could make it there. When Aaron and Leah came to trail, we could drive and pick it up. So I left about 20 pounds worth of supplies and caught the 430 shuttle to the trail. By the time I entered the Smoky Mountains again it was already almost 6pm. I flew up the mountains that night, climbing for 3 miles in about an hour to a campsite where I set up my minimalist camp. I had two days worth of food, the clothes on my body, my tent and sleeping bag. Thats it. I cooked myself a quesadilla with sausage in it on a pan over the campfire and went to bed.
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